Clarkia amoena, Farewell-to-Spring seed
An annual wildflower native to western North America. The name Farewell-to-Spring comes from its tendency to bloom at the summer solstice.
From the garden of Chris Musser.
From Northwest Meadowscape's website: Our most dramatic summer annual for mass planting.
For a spectacular mid-summer neon wildflower show, almost nothing compares to the stunning impact of this gorgeous, carefree native plant.Not only does this flower create a stunning impact among otherwise grass-dominated meadows, it is also relatively good at re-seeding itself, which is uncommon among other annual wildflowers in our region. Under optimal conditions, farewell-to-spring blooms over a long period from late June to early August. And although it thrives with a bit of water, it also tolerates very dry conditions. Similarly, it prefers full sun, but can tolerate the dappled shade of Garry oak savannas (or partially shaded city lots!).
Farewell-to-Spring has some color variability, but most blossoms are big and brilliant pink with characteristic white petal streaks. (Please note it is a blend of West Coast subspecies, not a single genetic line). The average height is about 2-feet in most settings. This is also one of the better native species for long-lasting cut flowers, it is more deer resistant than many wildflowers, and it readily germinates even in the peak of winter, setting down roots for the long summer bloom. What’s not to love?Farewell-to-Spring is a host plant for the large Clark’s sphinx moth (Proserpinus clarkiae), and the astounding looking Pacific green sphinx moth (Proserpinus lucidus).
How to Use Your Cover Crop & Native Seed Packets
Each seed packet is measured to cover 25 sq ft or 100 sq ft, depending on the size you chose.
Sowing Instructions
-
When to sow: Fall is ideal in Portland. The soil is still warm for germination, and fall rains keep seedlings watered. Some seeds (like meadowfoam or clovers) can also be spring-sown.
How to sow:
- Rake the soil lightly to create good seed-to-soil contact.
- Scatter the contents of the packet evenly over the area (don’t worry about perfect spacing).
- Gently press or rake seeds in so they make contact with the soil. Do not bury deeply — most native and cover crop seeds need light to germinate.
- Water: Fall rains usually do the job, but water lightly if the weather turns dry.
What to Expect
-
Traditional Cover Crops (rye, peas, fava, daikon, crimson clover, buckwheat, mustard): Grow quickly, protect soil, and build fertility. In spring, chop them down or mow before they set seed. Some (like rye) can also be crimped into a mulch.
-
Living Mulches (red fescue, dwarf yarrow, creeping thyme, low clovers): These stay low and provide long-term weed suppression and ground cover. Shear lightly as needed, but they don’t require replanting every year.
-
Pollinator Wildflowers (Clarkia, poppy, gilia, flax, meadowfoam, coneflower, blanketflower): Not classic cover crops, but they add beauty and attract bees, butterflies, and beneficial insects. Many reseed naturally.
Spring & Summer Management
-
Chop-and-drop: Cut plants at the base and leave them as mulch (peas, fava, clovers).
-
Mow: Use on ryegrass or cereals to turn them into quick mulch.
-
Crimp: Flatten tall rye or grains at flowering to create a long-lasting weed barrier.
-
Shear perennials: Yarrow, thyme, and sedges can be trimmed back after bloom.
-
Self-seeders: Flowers like poppy, clarkia, and meadowfoam will often reseed themselves. Leave some seed heads if you want them back next year.
Quick Tips
-
Cover crops = soil builders.
-
Living mulches = weed suppressors.
-
Wildflowers = pollinator magnets.
Tulle or row cover can protect young seedlings from birds and slugs until established.
-