Festuca occidentalis, Western Fescue seed
Perennial bunchgrass, 12–30". Strong root system stabilizes soil and supports meadow plantings. Best for meadow edges or naturalized areas. Covers 1 or 5 sq ft.
From Northwest Meadowscapes.
A mounding, tufted, native fine-leaved fescue for wild lawns, septic drain fields, parks, pet enclosures, and more.Western fescue is a widespread native member of its genus, occurring from California to the northern Rockies, with disjunct populations in the northern Great Lakes.
Mostly growing in loose tufts (and not spreading by rhizomes), this grass is highly tolerant of partial shade, deer, foot traffic, and extended periods without rain (it goes dormant during droughts and dry seasons).This grass (and other fine-leaved fescues) make for exceptional wild lawns that require only occasional mowing (typically only twice a year, in the spring and fall), and grow reliably and durably without water or fertilizer. If left unmowed, western fescue will produce seed heads that approach almost two-feet tall in height, while the thin, soft blades remain shorter and arch over into undulating mounds (that resemble lush, miniature green hills).
For reliability in lawn applications, fescues are usually combined into multi-species mixes, most often with related species such as red fescue, Roemer’s fescue, and Idaho fescue. Such mixed combinations create a resilient foundational matrix that is more resistant than any single species turf alone.
To maximize biodiversity (and support pollinators and beneficial insects), various other low-growing species can be co-planted with western fescue, such as yaak yarrow, self heal, poverty oatgrass, prairie junegrass, Chamisso sedge, blue eyed grass, golden-eyed grass, creeping thyme, and wild blue flax.
How to Use Your Cover Crop & Native Seed Packets
Each seed packet is measured to cover 25 sq ft or 100 sq ft, depending on the size you chose.
Sowing Instructions
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When to sow: Fall is ideal in Portland. The soil is still warm for germination, and fall rains keep seedlings watered. Some seeds (like meadowfoam or clovers) can also be spring-sown.
How to sow:
- Rake the soil lightly to create good seed-to-soil contact.
- Scatter the contents of the packet evenly over the area (don’t worry about perfect spacing).
- Gently press or rake seeds in so they make contact with the soil. Do not bury deeply — most native and cover crop seeds need light to germinate.
- Water: Fall rains usually do the job, but water lightly if the weather turns dry.
What to Expect
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Traditional Cover Crops (rye, peas, fava, daikon, crimson clover, buckwheat, mustard): Grow quickly, protect soil, and build fertility. In spring, chop them down or mow before they set seed. Some (like rye) can also be crimped into a mulch.
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Living Mulches (red fescue, dwarf yarrow, creeping thyme, low clovers): These stay low and provide long-term weed suppression and ground cover. Shear lightly as needed, but they don’t require replanting every year.
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Pollinator Wildflowers (Clarkia, poppy, gilia, flax, meadowfoam, coneflower, blanketflower): Not classic cover crops, but they add beauty and attract bees, butterflies, and beneficial insects. Many reseed naturally.
Spring & Summer Management
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Chop-and-drop: Cut plants at the base and leave them as mulch (peas, fava, clovers).
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Mow: Use on ryegrass or cereals to turn them into quick mulch.
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Crimp: Flatten tall rye or grains at flowering to create a long-lasting weed barrier.
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Shear perennials: Yarrow, thyme, and sedges can be trimmed back after bloom.
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Self-seeders: Flowers like poppy, clarkia, and meadowfoam will often reseed themselves. Leave some seed heads if you want them back next year.
Quick Tips
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Cover crops = soil builders.
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Living mulches = weed suppressors.
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Wildflowers = pollinator magnets.
Tulle or row cover can protect young seedlings from birds and slugs until established.
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