Rudbeckia occidentalis, Western Coneflower seed
Western coneflower. A tall perennial with unique green centers and no petals. Excellent for pollinators and late-season bloom. Covers 1 sq ft.
From Northwest Meadowscape's website: One of the more striking and interesting native wildflowers of the West, this tall, unusual looking plant has no ray flowers, but produces a large, prominent brown cone of disk flowers with a ring of green bracts below. This fascinating visual configuration gave rise to the alternate common name for this plant: ‘green wizard’, as it looks like an otherworldly magician’s scepter.
Western coneflower is a taller plant, sometimes reaching more than 4 to 5 feet in height, and is very long-lived, producing a thick rhizome. It typically occurs in mid to high elevation meadows with damp soils, but it grows as a fine garden plant even at sea level. We recommend starting it in containers with winter stratification since it begins small, from tiny seeds and is slow to get started.
Watch for numerous metallic green Agapostemon sweat bees on western coneflower, as well as the occasional bumble bee, and much more! This is an excellent cut flower with a long vase life – and it adds a totally distinct and interesting visual element to wildflower arrangements.
How to Use Your Cover Crop & Native Seed Packets
Each seed packet is measured to cover 25 sq ft or 100 sq ft, depending on the size you chose.
Sowing Instructions
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When to sow: Fall is ideal in Portland. The soil is still warm for germination, and fall rains keep seedlings watered. Some seeds (like meadowfoam or clovers) can also be spring-sown.
How to sow:
- Rake the soil lightly to create good seed-to-soil contact.
- Scatter the contents of the packet evenly over the area (don’t worry about perfect spacing).
- Gently press or rake seeds in so they make contact with the soil. Do not bury deeply — most native and cover crop seeds need light to germinate.
- Water: Fall rains usually do the job, but water lightly if the weather turns dry.
What to Expect
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Traditional Cover Crops (rye, peas, fava, daikon, crimson clover, buckwheat, mustard): Grow quickly, protect soil, and build fertility. In spring, chop them down or mow before they set seed. Some (like rye) can also be crimped into a mulch.
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Living Mulches (red fescue, dwarf yarrow, creeping thyme, low clovers): These stay low and provide long-term weed suppression and ground cover. Shear lightly as needed, but they don’t require replanting every year.
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Pollinator Wildflowers (Clarkia, poppy, gilia, flax, meadowfoam, coneflower, blanketflower): Not classic cover crops, but they add beauty and attract bees, butterflies, and beneficial insects. Many reseed naturally.
Spring & Summer Management
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Chop-and-drop: Cut plants at the base and leave them as mulch (peas, fava, clovers).
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Mow: Use on ryegrass or cereals to turn them into quick mulch.
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Crimp: Flatten tall rye or grains at flowering to create a long-lasting weed barrier.
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Shear perennials: Yarrow, thyme, and sedges can be trimmed back after bloom.
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Self-seeders: Flowers like poppy, clarkia, and meadowfoam will often reseed themselves. Leave some seed heads if you want them back next year.
Quick Tips
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Cover crops = soil builders.
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Living mulches = weed suppressors.
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Wildflowers = pollinator magnets.
Tulle or row cover can protect young seedlings from birds and slugs until established.
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