Festuca rubra var. ‘molate’, Molate Red Fescue seed
Perennial bunchgrass, 12–30". Strong root system stabilizes soil and supports meadow plantings. Best for meadow edges or naturalized areas. Covers 5 sq ft.
From Northwest Meadowscapes.A Pacific coast form of creeping red fescue for lush, soft, exuberant wild lawns – and for filling gaps between other plant species.
Contrasting slightly with other native fescues, this coastal population of red fescue forms both loose, flowing bunches, as well as some short, spreading rhizomes. This growth form makes it an excellent “filler” species to include with more densely tufted grass species to create a sturdy grass canopy that is more resistant to weeds and more durable to foot traffic.
Like other red fescues, this selection is tolerant of full sun in cool climates, but prefers partial shade in warmer locations. It performs excellently in low-fertility, well-drained soils, but can tolerate periods of moist/wet ground. The thin, fine leaf blades create fantastic soft, flowing mounds or drifts. The roughly 12-inch tall foliage can be mowed as low as 2 to 4 inches but this grass is best when mowed infrequently. If un-mowed, it will develop two-foot tall seed spikes.
Molate red fescue is a host plant for skipper butterfly caterpillars. It can be planted as a single species, used as a filler plant between other meadow plants to help keep out invasive non-native grasses and weeds, or combined into wild lawn mixes (especially with other fescues) or with seashore bentgrass, poverty oatgrass, prairie junegrass, meadowfoam, maiden clover, yaak yarrow, self heal, Chamisso sedge, blue eyed grass, golden-eyed grass, creeping thyme, and wild blue flax.
How to Use Your Cover Crop & Native Seed Packets
Each seed packet is measured to cover 25 sq ft or 100 sq ft, depending on the size you chose.
Sowing Instructions
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When to sow: Fall is ideal in Portland. The soil is still warm for germination, and fall rains keep seedlings watered. Some seeds (like meadowfoam or clovers) can also be spring-sown.
How to sow:
- Rake the soil lightly to create good seed-to-soil contact.
- Scatter the contents of the packet evenly over the area (don’t worry about perfect spacing).
- Gently press or rake seeds in so they make contact with the soil. Do not bury deeply — most native and cover crop seeds need light to germinate.
- Water: Fall rains usually do the job, but water lightly if the weather turns dry.
What to Expect
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Traditional Cover Crops (rye, peas, fava, daikon, crimson clover, buckwheat, mustard): Grow quickly, protect soil, and build fertility. In spring, chop them down or mow before they set seed. Some (like rye) can also be crimped into a mulch.
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Living Mulches (red fescue, dwarf yarrow, creeping thyme, low clovers): These stay low and provide long-term weed suppression and ground cover. Shear lightly as needed, but they don’t require replanting every year.
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Pollinator Wildflowers (Clarkia, poppy, gilia, flax, meadowfoam, coneflower, blanketflower): Not classic cover crops, but they add beauty and attract bees, butterflies, and beneficial insects. Many reseed naturally.
Spring & Summer Management
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Chop-and-drop: Cut plants at the base and leave them as mulch (peas, fava, clovers).
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Mow: Use on ryegrass or cereals to turn them into quick mulch.
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Crimp: Flatten tall rye or grains at flowering to create a long-lasting weed barrier.
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Shear perennials: Yarrow, thyme, and sedges can be trimmed back after bloom.
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Self-seeders: Flowers like poppy, clarkia, and meadowfoam will often reseed themselves. Leave some seed heads if you want them back next year.
Quick Tips
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Cover crops = soil builders.
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Living mulches = weed suppressors.
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Wildflowers = pollinator magnets.
Tulle or row cover can protect young seedlings from birds and slugs until established.
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